Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Once Again in China
My summer trip j June-July 2008

Hello!

The time has come to start my new blog. In a few minutes, I will leave for China with my sister, Jiawen. Jiawen and I have been to China together many times. We are originally from China since we both were adopted from there years ago. My mom (Hanni) took us back to China almost every year and then we started going without her (last summer). We are so excited to go. It's strange and wonderful. It's leaving home and it is going home all at once. I must get back to packing. Next stop is China!

My sister Jiawen (L) and me in Beijing
Chinese New Year 2001

We made it to Shanghai! First we flew to Vancouver and then to Shanghai.
Jiaz (what I call my sister) and I just finished a nice stroll around the hotel in search for "xue gao", our favorite ice cream. We were satisfied with "yang rou chuan" which was being sold on the street by a young Muslim man. He was adorable, but I felt so incredibly bad for him. Jiaz said the same thing but I told her that he was better off selling things rather than begging on the street. We later returned to buy a few more sticks of meat from him. I was also guilt tripped into buying this fruit called mangosteen. We've seen it before here in China. Isn't it expensive in the US? Anyhow, Jiaz and I went to Yu Yuan (the touristy area where I went last summer). We had tons of little snacks and "xiao long bao". We did a little bit of shopping. By the way, the two men who drove us to the hotel were very nice. They kept talking to us and were intrigued with what "America was like". The traffic was horrible though! It was like Boston, except ten times worse because there were bicyclists! Also, the cost of cabs have increased, too (it's up to eleven yuan). Everyone knows/thinks Jiaz and I are American or some type of a foreigner. I have to say, for a country that is trying to clean up, a whole lot of people sure do litter! That's probably just the American in me saying that. I miss home very much but we are so glad to be here. Jiaz and I are exhausted, but everything is going great.

Me and Jiaz in front of Zhao An Hotel, Shanghai. Yes, it's raining!

I will close with a poem I wrote on the plane... it is about coming back to China. I will write again soon. We are being picked up by Jiaz's brother in a few minutes and we will go to Nanjing where Jiaz will stay. Then I will take a bus right away to Hefei, another city I like very much. I probably will be able to write from there.

Until then.

Fang Fang (Jenni)

Once Again

A familiar journey
You take my hand

Lead me there

I give you my heart

Do you still want it?

Once again, I ask you

Can I trek on these golden steppes?

Once again, I tell you
" wo ai ni"
Once again, my heart follows wherever yours is
But to where?
Where is it Ma Ma?

Once again, I return home

Once again, I tell you
I love you.

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June 19, 2008

Well, things have been very busy here in Hefei! I've seen many friends, including our very special Little Girl in Pink (Run Yi)! I will start with my meeting with her and my mom says to tell you to have kleenex ready. At about 9:30 a.m., our good friend Jane (she lives in Hefei and helped us adopt my younger sister, Qing Qing) and Peter (the best driver in China!!) picked me up from the university housing I have been staying in. A few roads in Hefei are under construction now so it takes a little longer to get places. The orphanage hasn't really changed much. We met the assistant director again (Ying). She is so sweet! I wish all orphanages had someone like her. Anyway, we went straight to Run Yi. She was in her exercise room with her therapist. We called him Tai Yi Sheng (Dr. Tai). He was young and very energetic.

Run Yi (Little Girl in Pink) with her therapist, Dr. Tai

I knelt down and held her hand. She said she remembered me! I took out the gifts I had brought her. You were right, Mum, the little pink shirt fit her beautifully. She is very thin still. According to Director Ying, she is a picky eater in that she only likes meat and milk. She gets special meals because she is so picky! She was all smiles again. Throughout the visit, I saw her sit by herself, pretty upright.

Run Yi sits so well on her own now!

She has a tendency to lean forward, but she just needed a few reminders. I saw her standing against a wall all by herself. After a little, she said, "lei le" (tired). She definitely doesn't have a high, "girly" voice. It's really adorable and rather low. Anyhow, I saw her walking on her beam. During this exercise, I really became aware of the kind of community she has. It's a beautiful, caring and most of all supportive community. Everyone around her is so encouraging and patient. It was really moving and and an honor to be a part of that. She took a tumble because she lost her footing. She began to whimper, but with the encouragement of the staff, she quickly regained her happy self. Also, just as an fyi, her feet braces are slightly velcroed to the walking beam structure (to create traction I suppose). She takes a nap everyday. I held her again before we left. I was crying because the same little baby girl I had held a year ago has grown into a beautiful little girl.

I love Run Yi so much. I can't wait until she is with her new family.

Her hands were less clenched by the way. She rolled around on the mat for us, too. When she isn't in a chair or walking, she is on the floor. She can prop herself upright for a little bit. All of these simple gestures or mechanics we take for granted are quantum leaps for her. I was also able to feed her water while she sat on a chair and she had a few yogobites. Tell the family that is hoping to adopt her that she will continue to improve and that the community of supporters she has now is incredible and will always be a part of who she is. The staff are all wonderful, especially her therapist. We videotaped the entire visit! Later on, I will write a poem for this amazing girl. It is hard to believe that I met her two years ago in the countryside. How far she has come.

After our visit with Run Yi, Jane made Jennifer (Jane's daughter) and I lunch (which included my mom's favorite sliced ou, or lotus root.)! Then, Jennifer took me to see Kung Fu Panda in Chinese! It was just as funny if not moreso in Chinese. The theatre was huge and the screen was bigger than the typical US screen. There was a man standing outside the theatre in a giant panda costume as well. Poor guy! It was so hot!

Poor hot panda!!!

Then, Jennifer and I took a tour of her school on the way home. It's really big. There were many boys playing basketball outside in the heat. Jennifer and I also went to the supermarket for some things. She is so sweet! Any daughter of Jane's would be.

I had dinner with a bunch of people, including the nice Chinese couple I met last summer who wanted to come to CA to visit but didn't. They just stayed at Hampshire College for one whole year and just got back to Hefei. My mom's American friend, Kay and her daughter, Lili were there along with the other girls they are traveling with. A young man who is a student of Kay's at Hampshire named Sam also joined us. And of course I have been seeing "Ding Baba", the nice man who calls me his goddaughter. He was very happy to see me again. His wife is also incredibly warm and kind.

Me with Ding Baba and his wife.

After dinner, I went to this little street with small restaurants selling little snacks and I bought a few VCDs/DVDs. I guess I will look for Kung Fu Panda in Chinese for my little sister!

So, those are all the adventures for now. I leave for Kunming on the afternoon of June 22. I will hopefully write again before I get there.

~Fang

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June 21, 2008

Soon, I will leave Hefei to go to my home province of Yunnan. I am excited but have had a great landing here in Hefei. I have always felt very comfortable here and I enjoy the friends I have made over these years. These last two days, I haven't been doing much picture taking or filming because it has been very wet and rainy. It's nice though because usually around this time of year, it gets unbearably hot. The picture below is of our friend Xiao Li who we met through Kay Johnson. Xiao Li visited my family last year for a couple of weeks in California. We took this picture at a little stand where we had hotpot, yang rou chuan (lamb meat on a stick - sorry, vegetarians!) and kao mian bao (grilled bread, it's delicious).

Me with our friend, Xiao Li. She teaches English
at the university I have been staying at.

The picture of the watermelon trucks below have actually a really sad story. You see, with the Olympics coming up, many farmers are getting removed and displaced. There is so much overcrowding and competition that watermelon and other vegetables/fruits sold by local farmers has been forced to drop way down. Xiao Li said that it's about five fen (that's about seven cents) for a pound of watermelon. The farmers come into the city on the trucks. They barely make enough and they are expected to pay really highly taxes on top of that.

Watermelon trucks in Hefei

Now I am getting ready to go to Kunming. Jane is taking me to the Hefei Airport. Hopefully I will get onto the internet in Kunming easily.

Until Kunming!
Fang Fang

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June 22, 2008

I'm in Kunming now! This hotel is BEAUTIFUL! It's really convenient, too! I have been to this section of Kunming many times but never stayed here. It is called the Green Lake area. I walked over to the same little restaurant on the lake where they serve purple pineapple rice in the pineapple (one of my mom's favorites!). It was really good, but the ou (remember what that is?) was even better! I also had kong xin cai (hollow heart vegetable) and nan gua bing (pumpkin cakes).

My first dinner in Kunming with some of my favorites!

Kunming
has changed so much since last year. I barely recognize it. It's beginning to look more like America than ever. The taxi driver who took me to the hotel said something quite interesting- "We must keep changing in order to keep up with the world". I then asked him a rhetorical question- "Don't you think Kunming was beautiful to begin with?" He said yes, but that change was good. Then he was asked me if I was Thai. I said I didn't really know because I was adopted. He later said he thought I was from either the Wa tribe or the Jin Bo tribe. He said I looked Wa because my hair looked so healthy- I told him that was because I'm American and I eat healthy and put products in my hair!

Close to my hotel in the Green Lake area of Kunming.

The Green Lake area is still pretty much the same though which I appreciate. One thing Kunming is full of (or
maybe it's just this area) is beggars. I didn't notice nearly as many in Hefei. I also see many musicians such as guitar players playing music on the street. Very American, don't you think? I got a "bing tang hu lu" (hawthorne fruit dipped in hardened sugar and put on a stick) but sadly, they are made and then frozen now so they aren't that fresh. After dinner, I went swimming at the pool in the hotel. It's an outdoor pool! It was really nice to be able to get some exercise. Anyway, I got in touch with Jeff Book, one of my mom's contacts from her work with Yunnan Kids International. I'll be having lunch with him tomorrow. I also called Liz Ann. She is an American who has lived in a smaller city just a little ways south of Kunming called Yuxi, for nine years! She teaches in a university there and arranged for me to stay on campus. I really look forward to meeting the students there. Liz Ann sounds really nice. She and her husband have two adopted Chinese daughters - one is from Kunming.

My last photo is of a Chinese sign at the hotel. Translations on signs are often funny to see in China. Anyway, you can interpret this one as you want to!

Who's the translator?

I miss everyone at home so much.

Fang Fang

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July 2, 2008

Hi Everyone!

I know I am so behind in posting. My mom has been going nuts! I told her I have been writing all along though and taking lots of pictures. I'll go back a little to when I left Kunming for Yuxi.

The bus ride to Yuxi from Kunming wasn’t bad. It was took about 70 minutes. I took a taxi from the bus to the college. There, Liz Ann’s husband and their two adopted children, Natasha and Naomi met me at the front gate. Liz Ann was in the middle of teaching her finals so she wasn’t able to meet me. Her husband, Rod was extremely nice and welcoming. From the front gate, they took me to their apartment which was on the sixth floor. Then, we went to look at some art work because Rod is an artist. He showed me the campus, or rather part of it because it is quite big. The campus is beautiful! There are so many plants. I was really impressed. I later met Liz Ann after her exams and we had dinner. She made fresh bread and pasta! Yuxi is known as the "City of the Hong Ta Cigarettes”. The cigarette factory is nationally known and brings to Yuxi a stable and wealthy economy.

The next day, I went with Liz Ann and a group of villagers going to the suburbs of Yuxi. We were taken around by a man who wanted to preserve the ancient houses within the village. The houses were marvelous! The handiwork was very delicate and detailed. They were made out of brick and wood. The government wants to rebuild the village with new apartments. You may wonder if the villagers are allowing this to happen? Yes, they are indeed. The villagers want and need housing that is cleaner, bigger and more modern. In order for that to happen, the old houses must be demolished. This man who took us around is interested in purchasing a few of these houses, cleaning them up and making them a part of China’s vacation spots. After our tour, we enjoyed a home cooked lunch. Everything we ate was grown by these villagers and the farming is said to be "organic." Not sure if that is the same as California organic farming... but it was delicious.

Picking out our own vegetables for lunch!

After we finished, Liz Ann and I took a “mian bao che” (bread car, aka van) back into Yuxi. Later that day, I helped Liz Ann test prep her students for her exam. All I did was create little English circles. The students were all very intriguing and sweet. They all have such positive attitudes. After Liz Ann’s first exam, I went with some students to lunch at their cafeteria. It’s a three story high building that is filled with simple, plastic dining tables. Each story has a different selection of food. Though the food is simple, it’s also amazingly good! I have noticed that meals are eaten at earlier times than ours; for example, lunch is eaten at eleven and dinner is usually eaten at five o’clock or earlier. After an early dinner, I went to Liz Ann’s second sophmore class of students. I enjoyed this class even more! I taught them to play "hang man" and “down by the banks”. I don’t think they were used to such energy and fun! After their tests, we went to play a late game of ping-pong. They were quite good! But of course, not as good as me (just kidding, I was badly beaten). The mosquitos are killer! I have been bitten so many times. That’s one thing that I can’t seem to adjust to here. After ping-pong, about five or six of us walked to my little apt. and played cards. It was so much fun! LizAnn was able to arrange for me to stay in a small apt. on campus. It is Chinese style and I had to adjust my American ways to be comfortable but I did. The apt. is on the 6th floor, so I am going to be getting plenty of exercise!

My university apt. in Yuxi!

In the morning, a student called Kristin (whom I am great friends with now) took me just out of the school gate for some “bao zi” (steamed bun) and “dou jiang” (hot watered down soy milk). It was a perfect breakfast. From that morning on, I went out to get the exact same thing.

For the past week, I went out with the same bunch of students. They were all so interested in hearing about America, but they also saw me as one of their own which was really nice for me. They really made me feel at home in a way that I usually do not feel. We had hotpot together that was amazing (Mom!)

During my visit, I also helped out Liz Ann with her daughter, Natasha’s seventh birthday party. Liz Ann made a delicious banana cake with chocolate chunks! A few days later, I attended a dinner in which the students of a certain core class invited all their English teachers to. We walked across the Yuxi campus, down a little slope to a little roadside restaurant. As you often read from me now, the food was delicious!

Two of LizAnn's students and her daughter, Natasha

I have to say, I have really fallen in love with the students here. They have such positive outlooks and fresh points of views despite the fact that many of them come from farming families. My new friend, Chen Ying is able to attend college because her younger brother is working in a factory. Education is really a privilege and a reward here in China, especially in more rural areas. I was told that this kind of situation is very common for students here at the Yuxi college. It makes me stop and think about education and how hard it is for some to obtain. Chen Ying is a fantastic girl.

Some of my new friends in Yuxi. We all got along so well together.

Anyway, a few of us also went swimming at this water-park-like swimming place. There was a heated pool with gigantic water slides! We all immensely enjoyed that! There were also other water structures for kids, a lap pool for the really serious swimmers and a tidal pool. I went with Chen Ying, Xiao Zhi (another very good new friend) and Donna (didn’t quite catch her Chinese name!). We had such a blast together! Afterwards, we went out for hotpot again. But this time, it was to a dodgy little place. I think that was why I was feeling very poorly the next day. The students have been studying so incredibly hard for their finals that in my last days, I was on my own for a bit. That was fine with me. I went around exploring and am always struck by how modern Yuxi is and I hope so much that not all of the older things will disappear. I have been looking for older, unusual Guanyin statues for my mom which she loves. With everything so modern, I really have to explore to find these things now.

Later, I was able to help students prepare for their tests (it depended on what test it was). I was really impressed with their English, but moreso with their attitudes. As I wrote earlier, they are just so positive in the ways they think about things. They were never afraid to try and that was refreshing. Late at night, the students enjoy something called “shao kao” (BBQ). They go up to the top of their school (which is in a hilly area) and have meat/vegetable kebabs and other tasty little treats. I suppose they do this because they tend to eat dinner really early and are hungry again later in the evening! As I mentioned earlier, one thing that I always crave and look forward to here in China is “bing tang hu lu” (hawthorn fruits coated in burnt sugar!). Now this tasty treat is made with crab apples which aren’t nearly as good as the hawthorne.

A "bouquet" of bing tang hu lu.

I really miss some aspects of the old China- smaller towns, beautiful old fashioned buildings, the bicycles (now replaced with motor bikes) and street vendors selling nic-nacs. Those things remind me of being a little kid in China. It is like a comfort thing. Because Yuxi is so wealthy, all these things have been replaced with things we can find in America- it’s really a shame, but the students don’t agree. They want more modern, more comfortable, more clean. I understand this but why can't we have both? Anyway, the day I finally left was a rainy day. The students who took me to the bus station begged me to come back for a few more days after Pu'er. I told them that just for them, I would. I really have grown to love my new friends here and I will miss them. But first, I have to have my adventure in Pu'er.

To be continued!

Fang Fang

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July 3, 2008 - On the Road to Simao

The day I left for Simao, it was raining. I was originally supposed to take a bus to Mojiang and from there to Pu'er, but I missed the only bus to Mojiang so I took a bus to Yuan Jiang instead. Actually, the bus to Yuan Jiang stopped in the middle of the highway. I had told the bus driver that I needed to get to Mojiang so he stopped the bus because he noticed that there was a Mojiang bus stopped on the highway! He told me to catch that bus and threw my suitcase at me in the pouring rain (not in a mean way, he was just in a hurry). So I was standing in the middle of the highway trying to wobble my way to the Mojiang bus - my suitcase was broken and my sandals did not provide a good grip for the slippery conditions. Anyway, I went from Mojiang and then to Pu'er. It took me a total of seven and a half hours to arrive at Pu'er. I was exhausted by the time I got there; I arrived at about nine o’clcock. A Scottish family who we had contacted through their website met me there at the bus stop. Lesley (the mum) and her husband Ali (short for Alastair) both teach English at the college in Pu'er. Before I went to the college, I had a nice long chat with them. They were lovely (as they would say)! They have two daughters, Freda and Edie (short for Edith). I love their accent!

The next day, Lesley introduced me to some of her students. They were much more quiet than the ones in Yuxi. I met four girls. The five of us climbed their infamous “Cha Shan”, or tea mountain. It was a pleasant hike to the top of a magnificent hill where you were rewarded with a splendid view of the small town and the tea plantations. The girls explained to me that the reason there weren’t that many tea pickers is because spring is the time for tea picking because that is when the tea leaves are most tender.

Me with some students from Simao Teacher's College.

By the way, you will hear me refer to this city as both Simao and Pu'er. This is because the city itself was called Simao until the local government wanted to rename it Pu'er after their infamous Pu'er tea. But all the locals still know it as Simao. The city of Pu'er is quite developed! In fact, Lesley informed me that the city is quite wealthy- most likely because of the tea. The girls and I met up with Lesley, their older girl, Edie, and Ali for lunch. Freda (the younger one) doesn’t return home for lunch (like most Chinese students do) because her nursery takes care of them until 5:30! Anyway, we went to the family’s favorite place called “Lu Dao Gong Yuan” (green island park). It was quite good. I got my first taste of “er kuai” which is really just a BBQ rice pancake. It was delicious, especially with the bean paste they spread on it (though it makes it look awful)! The four students joined us for lunch as well, but they barely ate anything because they were all on diets (according to Lesley!). Up until then, I had never heard of Chinese girls being on diets; they are already so thin! Afterwards, Ali took Freda back to her school while I went with the girls to their dorm. We played a little bit of cards, but mostly we talked. I asked them what life was like for them back home since they all come from farming families. They told me that every time they return home for winter, spring or summer break, they help their mothers cook and also help in the fields. They were really sweet and so humble! I have been so touched by everyone I've met. Later that day, Ali and I found out from Lesley that we were not going to join her on her Mojiang trip. She had originally planned on taking everyone (that’s us!) to about ten countryside schools in Mojiang, but the education bureau wouldn’t allow her to. We were quite disappointed, but Ali had many other surprises in store for us!

The next day, we started on an early journey to a little village called “Long Long” (the locals called it “Nong Nong” due to their dialect). Freda, Edie, Ali and I took a bus from Pu'er to a little place called “Da Zhai” and then from there, a bus to Long Long. When we stopped in Da Zhai, we were dropped off at a middle school (that we would later visit!). All the high school seniors were going home for the summer, so they, too waited with us. There was also a lot of staring seeing Ali, Freda and Edie with their light-colored hair and eyes. Many of them thought I was Ali’s young Chinese wife (!) or their tour guide. We finally got the bus to Long Long which was packed with bags and basket loads of blankets, fresh vegetables and other belongings students brought with them to take home. When the four of us arrived in Long Long, we were a bit disappointed because we did not see a village, but rows of new buildings. I said to Ali, “We’re too late”. He knew exactly what I meant. Many of the villages have been destroyed and then rebuilt- it’s all apart of China’s crusade to recreate the entire country, every nook and cranny. We were successful in finding an old man with a beautiful, handwoven farmer’s hat. He was on his way to work- picking tea. We decided to follow him. As we went deeper and deeper into the village, the box-like buildings eventually stopped, soon replaced by forests of bamboo and other exotic plants. We followed the tea picker into what felt like Alice in Wonderland’s rabbit hole. When we finally got out, we found breathtaking, vast, endless fields of farmland.

One of our beautiful views of the lush countryside in Pu'er.

As we followed the tea picker, he talked to me in his heavy local accent. He was very kind and explained to us that he picks tea everyday until 5:00 pm, barely stopping. Two little Miao girls also tagged along because they were learning from and helping the old man. They all carried little handwoven baskets that were slung around them.

Following the tea farmer and his young helpers.

We passed by a little, mudbrick house that was hidden from view. It looked so simple, but very welcoming. We climbed to the top of a hill where the old man’s plantation was. As they picked, Freda and Edie played, and Ali and I took pictures. We tried not to disturb them. Despite the old man’s age, he was very speedy. The Miao girls were as well. They told us they were about twelve years old- Ali and I were shocked! We had thought eight or nine. I told Ali that tea picking is a lot easier than rice farming because the shrubs are much higher. The day before, I had bought some Pu'er tea for about thirty yuan (that’s about five or six dollars) per half kilogram. The tea picker said he sells his freshly picked leaves for two yuan (that’s about twenty five cents!) to the factory where it will be processed and dried. I felt so badly for them, but I remembered what I had told my sister,Jiaz- they are actually quite lucky because they have jobs.

Famous Pu'er tea freshly picked in the house we visited.

The old man invited us to have lunch with them but we declined seeing as how we had to get back. The kindness and generosity of the villagers we came across was immeasurable. Before we left the tea pickers, Ali took a picture of me and the old man. The man thought it was a polaroid camera and so he asked for a picture. I explained to him that it wasn’t, but that I would happily send the picture to him. He gave me his name which he could barely write. That’s when I realized that this was the true countryside where most folks can barely write their names. We left with gratitude. Like Ali said, "Following an old man with a great hat can lead to great adventures!" This was certainly true for us. The climb down the hill and back to the main road was not as fun because it was very slippery. Before we left to go home, we stopped by a little tea shop run by a family. The shop was in a room in their house actually! The family was Miao! We had delicious home-picked and processed tea. It was really great. I bought from them a “Pu'er Cha Bing” (Pu'er tea pancake)- a disk-like shape made out of compressed tea leaves. This is what Pu'er is most known for. It had been pressed only last week! The family invited us back to make our own cha bing! I wish I had had more time to do these things. After our little tea break, we started our trek to find a bus home...

The two little girls, Edie and Freda, were great the entire time. They never once complained. It seems to me that this is more of an unhurried life. Taking time to look at the flowers takes on a whole new meaning. We waited and waited for our bus back but no bus came so we walked for about two hours until a man offered us a free ride. The other cars who passed by us asked for way too much money. A bus did come before we were picked up, but it didn’t stop and left us in the middle of the road looking like silly, lost foreigners. The man that picked us up thought I was Ali’s tour guide, a very bad tour guide who couldn’t even manage to get them home! But I explained myself. The ride in his "mian bao che" was lovely, seeing as how we didn’t have to walk for the next eight hours! When we returned home, we enjoyed luke-warm showers (which I’ve gotten used to now) and a dinner at a tasty Muslim restaurant. I’ll never forget the old tea picker and his studious little helpers, and I will continue to dream of returning to this magical place.

Two young Miao tea pickers outside of Long Long Village.

One more photo and I will stop for now. I have many more adventures to share of course but I want to say thank you to everyone so far who has offered me friendship, welcomed me into their homes and schools. Ali, thank you for a magical day in the countryside and thanks to your family for your generous hearts.

Ali and Freda on the day of our adventure.

You can read about amazing things that Ali and Lesley and their girls have done since arriving in Simao from Scotland at this website:

http://www.leafgovso.co.uk/

Ali even put some photos from my visit there. He said that I arrived a stranger and left a friend. This is how I have felt my whole trip! I know I'll see them again one day.

Until next time,

Fang Fang

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Simao, Part 2

Since a lot more happened during my time in Simao, I am adding the following.

While in Pu'er, I met up with a British woman called Jane who is also a volunteer teaching at the college. Every Sunday, she visits the small orphanage there in Simao. The orphanage consists of only about fourteen children. Most of them have some disability (mostly physical). Two British boys called Woody and Andy joined us. They are a part of a program called “GAP”- in many European countries, it is normal and actually encouraged that high school graduates take a year off to travel before attending college. For the most part, we just played with and held the kids. I brought some fruit gummies to the kids... they went absolutely crazy! Jane told me to not give them too many because they get very frequent visitors who have treats. At the orphanage, there was a little boy from Burma who’s parents were both in jail. He didn’t speak a word of Chinese. Through feeding the little boy the fruit gummies, I was able to teach him to say “tang” which means candy. We stayed for about two hours until we had to leave because the children were all going down for their afternoon nap. The boys and I went out for Muslim food since Jane had left early for another appointment.

That same night, I was invited out to KTV (kareoke). It was pretty fun, despite the fact that most of the people there couldn’t sing all that well and most of them smoked! That’s another thing I just can’t get used to. It seems like almost every Chinese man in China smokes. It’s horrible for them, but worse for the people around them!

The next morning, Ali and I were driven to a little village called Da Zhai (the same one we were dropped off at the other day). There was a middle school there. We were told that the majority of kids who attend the school were minority and come from farming families. Some of them have homes over four hours away! The kids stay at the school through the school year. The reason kids from so far away to attend this school is because everything is free- books, room and board, food, etc. The school was built and funded by a Taiwanese company. I was quite impressed with the middle school. The buildings and classrooms were in good condition, the teachers seemed to enjoy their jobs and the kids seemed to enjoy school. I also learned that it is now illegal to enforce school uniforms because most kids can’t afford it. I visited two English classes and taught in both of them. The kids were so sweet and mostly just stared at me wide-eyed. Chinese classrooms don’t look a thing like American ones! The walls are bare, except for a blackboard in front and one in back. The students sit in pairs in wooden desks. There are stacks of books on their desks as they sit in class. I taught them to play hang man (which they loved) and they asked me questions about America. When I asked them if any of them were minority, only about four about of forty raised their hand. Ali and I figured that it was out of fear that they didn’t raise their hands. It was hard for me to believe that many of the kids were close to my age! They looked so young.

A visit to a middle school in Dazhai, Pu'er County, Yunnan

After our school adventure, Ali and I went about exploring the area because he had researched the area and had found some little villages. The girls didn’t join us that day because they had school and Lesley was still away in Mojiang. We walked though a endless fields of rice patties, until we came across some older mudbrick buildings. A typical village consists of about ten or fifteen families, but they may be very spread out due to plantations. This village were spectacular! Families were bunched in pairs. As we climbed up quite a steep hill, Ali and I saw the villagers. Many of them tried to invite us in for lunch. Even though these people don’t have much, they will give as much as they can. The generosity of these people is limitless. As we wandered deeper and deeper into the area/village, we found abandoned houses, chickens running about, a woman going to market with a basket on her back full of some type of squash and a little school girl who was returning home for lunch. On her way home, she had caught a little fish which she told us she was taking home to raise. She was about seven. Coincidentally, Ali and I wandered to her house about an hour after meeting her. Her family also invited us in, but we had to go because Ali had to get back into town to pick up Freda. On our way home, we came across a groove of bamboo. Ali asked me if I had ever had bamboo rice (rice cooked in bamboo). I said I hadn’t. He told me that bamboo rice was only made in the winter because a special type of bamboo was required to make it. This reminded me of one of my favorite movies “The King of Masks” because the grandfather in the movie makes some of this rice cooked in bamboo.

A magical bamboo grove in Pu'er, Yunnan.

When Ali and I got back into the city, we went and bought some fruit because we still had a little bit of time to spare before Freda’s school let out. We bought some lychees and mango. With the mangoes, I made some fresh squeezed mango juice. It was so good! I went with Ali to pick up Freda. Her school is a typical Chinese elementary school. Ali explained to me that most of the time, grandparents are the ones who pick up the kids.

For the next few days, I just explored Simao a bit and helped Ali with the kids. The day before I left, I took a bicycle-powered rickshaw to the bus station and bought a ticket. I forget how rickety and unstable they feel! Finally, on Tuesday, Lesley returned. She was exhausted! She told us that she had visited about four or five different schools with five days. The Mojiang bus driver drove the bus into the college because he had heard/seen Lesley in a commercial. He was very touched by her work, so he decided to take her all the way home! The bus coming into the college was a spectacular sight! That night, Lesley, Ali and I sat down with nice, hot cups of coffee and we all filled each other in on what had happened while Lesley was gone. It was a nice way to end my visit there. I love this family and will think of them often.

I miss you all - hope to see you again soon!

The next morning, I took an early bus back to Yuxi. Before reaching Yuxi, I stopped in the very small city of Mojiang to see an old friend- Xiao Wang. Xiao Wang was the woman who went with my mum and me to a Miao village in the far south of Yunnan to search for my clues to my past when I was 9 years old. Many people have thought over the years that I may be Miao but we do not know for certain. Xiaowang is also Miao so she speaks the Miao language as well as Mandarin. She later married a Hani man. Hani is another of the many minority groups in China. Their now five year old daughter also came along to meet me.

My friend, Xiao Wang with her husband and daughter in Mojiang.

When I first met Xiaowang, she was in her early to mid-twenties. Now, she is about thirty, but she looks much older due to the fact that she has worked in the rice fields every single day since she got married. Her husband is a rice farmer. They make about three yuan per kilogram (of rice). The four of us enjoyed a nice meal together. You could tell that meat was a real treat for them. Their daughter, En Hui, was thrilled when I gave her her presents. On our way back to the bus station, Xiaowang told me she was four months pregnant! I asked her if she wanted a son or a daughter. She told me she didn’t care, but that her parents and her husband’s parents were pressuring her to have a boy. She also told me stories of people from her village abandoning baby girls, but then she looked down and she told me, “I would never do that, even if my baby girl was disabled.” As we waited at the bus station for my bus, En Hui warmed to me and she was very intrigued with my camera. She is so beautiful now! En Hui will start school this August. She will walk for about an hour everyday to go to school with the other children from her village. I gave Xiao Wang nine hundred RMB for tuition. She accepted it humbly. Xiao Wang told me that she hopes for En Hui to finish school and get a “real job”. Xiao Wang was only able to finish middle school. She had to stop because her family couldn’t afford to send her to high school. I would like to make sure that En Hui can finish high school. With what I make tutoring, I can definitely help. Xiao Wang has been a friend to me and I want to do this for her. When I went to board my bus, Xiao Wang asked if I would return next year. I told her that I would try my hardest. In reply, she said, "If you do come back, please come to our house. It will be ready for guests, and I’ll cook for you." I smiled and said,"Then I will be sure to come!"

Me with little En Hui at the Mojiang bus station.
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Back to Yuxi

When I finally arrived in Yuxi, I felt like I hadn’t left at all. For the next couple of days, my close bunch of student friends and I just hung around together. We went back to the same swimming pool. The students all told me that they were returning home soon since school has now ended. They all wanted me to go back home with them and I wish so much I could’ve. Most of them are from the countryside. One thing that I will never forget is one of the last conversations I had with them. We were all watching a TV program in my hotel room. We were watching famous song artists belting out songs about China and all its wonders! I finally had had enough and said, “It seems like the Olympics belong only to China.” In reply, the students said, “Don’t you know the slogan- one world, one dream?!” I told them that it was more like one China, one dream. One thing led to another and finally, wer were all arguing/debating about how “everyone always targets China” or how "Americans are always looking down on the Chinese". We also talked about Tibet- all of the students agreed that Tibet belonged to China and that they couldn’t understand why Tibet wanted independence from the Chinese government who had always been so kind... not THAT was a heated conversation! I kept trying to get them to broaden their visions a little. I said I didn’t need them to agree with me, but they refused to consider that China had some faults, as does America! They kept saying to me "You’re Chinese, you should agree with us!" I told them that the American side of me gave me the tools to think for myself. That was all I was trying to get them to do- think for themselves. They didn’t want to say anything against their own people, they said. Lesley and Ali (back in Simao) have had the same experiences. In spite of our talks, I love these students and will miss them very much. We are friends and I think they felt this, too.

Our last group shot together in Yuxi.

On one of the days I was in Yuxi, another old friend came to visit me. Robbie, his wife Priscilla and their ten-year-old son Yisa came from the city of Kaiyuan where they live, to have lunch with me. Robbie is a Dutch man who has been in China for who-knows how many years. He married a wonderful woman from the Yi minority (Priscilla) and now they have a tri-lingual son (Yisa). I have known Robbie for as long as I’ve been in America (a little more than ten years!). Anyway, we all walked over from my hotel to have lunch. Robbie told me about his work and Xiao Wang. Then, he started to tell me that he still believes I’m from the Miao nationality. I told him that many people think that I’m Wa... he said I wasn’t tall enough! We then started to plan my next trip to Asia! He said I should fly directly to Thailand to visit the Miao and the Wa there and then fly into China. I’ve never been to Thailand before! When I told him I saw Xiao Wang and the family, he said that I was lucky and special because Xiao Wang’s husband barely ever leaves the fields for anyone! Anyway, it was a lovely lunch, but Robbie had to get started on his four and a half hour drive through the mountains to home. It’s always a treat to see Robbie.

Old friends are the best. Robbie and family.

The next day, I headed off to Kunming with a bunch of Yuxi students who also were heading home for the summer. The countryside I visited on this trip was gorgeous and breath-taking and it filled me up, though I have to admit, being able to take a hot shower these last few days has been incredible, too! Leaving Yunnan was very painful because to me, Yunnan is home. Though I didn’t find my mum this trip and I probably won’t (not trying to be pessimistic), I leave knowing that I have a warm, loving and rather large family waiting for me in Yunnan. I have Robbie and his family, Xiao Wang and hers, the Yuxi students, Ali and his family, LizAnn and hers, and the ever-so kindhearted villagers. This is definitely something worth returning to and it is only a matter of time before I am back. A land of flowers, amazing people, food, warmth, colors, tradition. What's not to love?

A flower I captured deep in the countryside.

The next morning, I flew to Hefei. Jane’s daughter, Jennifer took me to an area with little street vendors (!) and we had incredible dumplings for dinner. It was really nice. Then, the next morning, I took a bus to Nanjing. In Nanjing, Jiaz and I did a little bit of last minute shopping and we met up with an old friend, Huang Tao. He was the bellboy we met two years ago when we stayed at a fancy hotel. Now, he works at a supermarket. Jiaz felt very embarassed after she asked him what his current employment was but I told her not to be. We had a rather short visit with him seeing as how Jiaz was feeling badly.

Huang Tao, former Nanjing bellboy.

I have noticed that Chinese people can recognize that Jiaz and I are foreigners, yet foreigners/tourists cannot. Yesterday, while out, I saw a white man struggling to communicate with a shopkeeper. I went over and asked the man what he wanted. He was taken aback and waved me off- probably thinking I was trying to sell him something. We went out for a last hot pot dinner together with Jiaz's family. As usual, Jiaz ate way too much spice! Jiaz and I are going to take a train into Shanghai. I don’t know how we’re going to manage with four bags!

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Final Post from Shanghai, China -July 15, 2008

Today, we took a two hour train to Shanghai from Nanjing. I was so impressed with the conditions of the train/train station! Smoking was prohibited (yay!), there was a lot of leg room and sage places to store luggage. The ride to Shanghai was smooth and quiet. It was really quite lovely. Jiaz and I did run into a bit of trouble though... we had WAY too many pieces of baggage. They were quite a hindrance. We had about four super heavy suitcases (I don’t know how we ever managed). We have only the people around us to thank. Everywhere we went, there was someone reaching out a friendly hand to help. It was great! I have never felt more at home or welcomed. Jiaz and I both noticed a peculiar number of East Indians traveling. One Indian chap almost carried off our suitcases by accident! Jiaz and I will be leaving for the States at around 3:45 pm tomorrow. Leaving can be a painful, yet joyful thing. We leave with beautiful, unforgettable experiences and we leave knowing that we will return once again to China, our first home.

I feel a profound need to thank everyone for following along with me on my journey. A good story is always more fun with readers/listeners. I was asked recently how my trip has been- I couldn’t sum it up in one breath. It has been more beautiful than I can say, and at times a painful experience. I explained to my friend that life and all of its journeys is like a good plum- sour, yet sweet at the same time. No matter how sour, you always feel a sense of accomplishment and fulfillment after finishing. This journey has once again opened more doors and windows for me- a window into my past and a door into my future. It has shown me where and what I’ve come from and has given me a peek into what I am capable of accomplishing. The most important thing I’ve learned from this trip is to not being afraid of adventures or new things. I am not one to shy away from an adventure, but towards the beginning of this journey, I just wanted to stay in the places I was familiar with (Hefei, Kunming, etc.). After going to Yuxi and Simao, I cannot imagine what this trip would’ve been like. The people I met along the way are permanently set into my heart. I fell in love with everyone I met. I believe that it’s the people that make a place special. With that, I would also like to give thanks (again) to the many people that I’ve met along the way. Jiaz’s family in Nanjing, Jane & her family in Hefei along with Ding Ba Ba (my godfather), Kay Johnson and and her daughter and friends in Hefei, Carol and Jeff Book in Kunming, Liz Ann & her family in Yuxi, the college students there, Robbie & his family in Kaiyuan, Ali & his family in Pu'er and not to mention all the many everso-kindhearted villagers and everyone else who helped us lug our luggage or gave us directions. Thank you, thank you! I would like to thank little Run Yi (Little Girl in Pink) for filling my heart up with love and her beautiful little laugh. Like the great Hillary Clinton said- it takes a village to raise a child. I believe that is also it takes a village to raise a traveler (on his or her journey). And I have found that village in China. Xie Xie!

Fang Fang

Forever a Chinese favorite of mine - fire roasted corn!

Finally, I end with a poem. This is dedicated to my two mothers. I will find a good photo to go with it when I get home.

You Would Be Proud

I have returned
I looked for you
You were hiding in my heart
deep in my soul
I am you and
you are me
I am your grain of rice you’ve labored for
I am your blueberry from Maine
Mama,
Mum.
You would be proud
Proud to know that I am able to love
Proud to know that I have people who love me
and whom I love back
You would be proud to know that I journey alone
Proud to know
I would climb mountains just to glimpse your rice paddies
Proud to know
I would do anything to bring joy into your life
You would be proud to know I don’t blame you
You would be proud to know you gave me a chance
You would be proud to know I am your daughter
and you are my mama,
you are my mum


25 comments:

Sheryl said...

Dear Fang Fang,
Your mom sent me your blog address. I am so excited to follow your trip this year. Your poem is beautiful. I know you are excited to get to Hefei. I am excited, too! Love, Sheryl

Unknown said...

Dear Fang and Jiaz,

We're glad to see that you're blogging about your trip again. Great poem! Jiaz, we look forward to reading about your experiences also.

Love, Rich & Amo

Unknown said...

Hi young ladies, please come to see us in Hong Kong if you come this way! We miss Chongqing some but Hong Kong is the perfect mix of east and west. We miss you! You would really enjoy playing with Perin, now 5.7 years old, as she would with you. Thanks to Hanni for the link, and have a great trip! Your Canadian uncle Kevin, Jennifer and Perin Aili

Sheryl said...

Fang,
I am glad your trip is going so good, and you are enjoying so many yummy things to eat :)! I loved seeing the pictures of Little Girl in Pink. They are precious.
Love, Sheryl

Michelle Murphy said...

Fang Fang!

Oh to be back in Kunming! I must say I'm soooooo jealous! I remember our final day in Kunming last summer with you at the restaurant... how the Green Lake district restored my delight in Kunming! I'd nearly forgotten about the delicious purple pineapple rice and the pumpkin cakes. I really long to be back...

Have a wonderful trip and I'll follow your blog with Julianne.

Lots of love,
Michelle Murphy
(physical therapist from LWB PT Trip '07)

Yunnan Kids International Blog said...

Hi, this is your mum! I sure am loving reading everything you write. Miss you so much. Take care of yourself, breathe in as much of Yunnan as you can so you can share it with me. Talk to you soon.

Allen said...

Hi Fang Fang, I enjoyed reading your blog. Could you give more background about the Little Girl in Pink? How have you learned or maintained your ability to speak Mandarin? Thanks, Allen FCC dad

Fang Fang said...

Hi Allen (FCC dad)!

Thanks for your comment. I don't see an email address so am writing you back here on my blog. I was between 5 and 6 when I was adopted and I have always spoken Mandarin and never lost it. I always had tutors and we went back to China each year and spent time there (my mom taught English at different places). To answer your question about Little Girl in Pink, I noticed her in the countryside when we visited my younger sister's foster family. I took some pictures of her and felt she was very smart, even though she did not speak to us or move much. We asked Love Without Boundaries to help us to help her and they agreed. That was two years ago. She has made amazing progress since that time and she will hopefully join her family this year. So, that's the story.
Take care,
Fang

Unknown said...

hey girl,
great to hear about your adventures. i'm here in boston getting ready to head up to wayne. while i'm there, i'll imagine you on the porch.
china sounds amazing. can't wait to see more pictures.
so i have to ask, how am i suppose to interpert that sign?
maybe i'm getting old because i read a sign in boston giving directions for the lights and i have no idea what it is saying. these things happen when you're old.
miss you,
love,
ba

nancy oken said...

Dear Fang,

I'm so enjoying reading your travel blog! Also enjoying the wonderful photos and all your colorful descriptions. Your poem really moved me, too. Thanks for all of it.
Hope your journey back home goes smoothly.

Warmly,
Nancy

diane said...

Hi Fang,
So great to read of your adventures!
For some reason I am always hungry just after reading your blog.....
Love anf a hug,
Diane

Anonymous said...

hey babes,
i'm so glad you're seeing the china behind the media china...its the china i want to see.
wayne is wonderful, as always. saw nikki at tubbies. she sends her hellos. i told her next year you'd come to wayne before you went to china. how's that sound?
love,
ba

my2cents said...

Dear Fangyi,
This blog is sensational. How amazing that you are able to travel throughout China on your own. You are equal parts food writer/food stylist, travel writer and poet. WOW! Quite an accomplishment. Cannot wait to see you when you get home...tomorrow!
Love, Peggy

Anonymous said...

Dear Fang Fang,

Thank you for sharing your adventures! I, too, have had such moving experiences while traveling, but I was in my 20's-40's during pre-blogging days! I was intrigued that you were traveling by bus by yourself at age 15. I continued reading, looking for clues as to who you were traveling with, who was translating for you... it was all YOU!

I like how you got beyond the delicious food and touched on nitty-gritty cross-cultural issues (the last night with your university friends) and the efforts you made to understand their perspective and to appreciate the cultural influences that forged your perspective. I like how you met up with people doing interesting and vital work and were able to further broaden your perspective. I like how a strong sense of appreciation pervades your outlook. And most of all I like your awesome poems!

My elder Nanjing girl, Xiu Xiu, age 16, is currently in China with a Hanban camp studying Chinese. She was adopted at age 4, but since we lived in Japan, Chinese became a very weak third language. She is very keen now to become fluent after joining the CCAA camp in Beijing last summer. We had arrangements for her to volunteer at the Tianjin orphange this summer, but decided she needed more fluency before returning on her own to volunteer. As her mom, I wasn't ready to let her go by herself (although she has returned to Japan by herself). I think the two of you have much in common! She has also written some very moving poetry to her birthparents. Also, I'm an ESL teacher, and it seems this is your mom's profession as well.

I'd like to hear from your sister. It seems she's a Nanjing girl--but she has a foster family there? Xiu Xiu has none, and the Nanjing SWI staff have changed. How was her volunteering experience?

We now live in Hawaii, so I send you very warm aloha and mahalo,

Barbara (mom to Xiu Xiu and Ju Ju, both from Nanjing)

Sheryl said...

Dear Fang Fang,
Though we have never met, I feel I know you a little from the beautiful words you have written. They give an amazing glimpse into the special woman you are becoming. Both your Mamas are blessed to be in your heart and spirit.

Thank you for sharing your journeys in China. I am glad you were able to see old friends, make new ones and eat so much delicious food! I got hungry just reading about it. Surely we will meet someday.
Love,
Sheryl

~Bruce said...

Dear Fang Fang - Greetings from Los Angeles! My name is Bruce Austin and I'm another FCCer who got your blog address from your Mom's posting to the FCC list. I've been reading your postings with great interest and enjoyment, and I have to say with ever-growing admiration for your writing skills as well as the wonderful stories of your travels these past few weeks. It's remarkable what you've seen and done, and I think it says so much about China and her people that you've been able to travel so freely, with relative ease and safety, and with such welcoming hospitality everywhere you've been. It's truly inspiring. I recently had the pleasure to tour China for about 3 weeks with my wife Linda and our two daughters Maylin and Jenny, both of whom are adopted form China. Our girls are 5 and 6 years old, and I frankly found myself daydreaming as I read thru your descriptive adventures that they too would some day have similar adventures as you and your sister have had this summer. Thanks so much for sharing your wonderful tales with us, and your photos which are also great. Best of all has been the warmth and depth of your words and your feelings. Your poems are simply lovely and I have enjoyed sharing them with my daughters. I look forward to hearing more about your travels in the future! Zai jian ~ Bruce

Heather said...

Fang and Jiaz:

I loved reading about your trip to China. Thank you for sharing. I so look forward to returning to China with my two girls, who were adopted from Inner Mongolia and Shanxi.

Yoli said...

Dear Fang Fang,

I am so glad I found your blog. You are such a talented writer and that poem you made for both your Moms was so heartfelt. I hope to see more of your writing.

Anonymous said...

I don't know you but I saw a link to your blog on the Yunnan Yahoo group. My husband and I are adopting a little girl (16 months old) from Yunnan. She is in Mengzi SWI.
Your blog was so touching and encouraging! I hope our daughter will be able to travel to her first home many times as well and meet some of the wonderful people there as you have. You are a beautiful girl and I agree with your poem...both of your mother's have many reasons to be proud of you.
Best Regards,
Shannon Stone

Anonymous said...

Welcome Home Fang.

Mike M (YKI)

Anonymous said...

Loved reading your blog. You have a great way of expressing yourself. If you're ever passing through Kunming again I hope we'll be able to meet. Paul (friend of Ali and Lesley).
www.paulinchina.info

Anonymous said...

Fang Fang,
I've followed your blog, thanks to your mom. You are an amazing and adventurous 15 year old girl. I know both mommys are very proud of you too.
Although we have not met, it's as I've known you as one of my nieces.
I hope I get a chance to meet you one day. You are inspiring!

We recently came home with a 17 month old son from Lincang. We were told that he could be Wa too.
You have a wonderful mom and you two deserve nothing but the best.
Love,
Sandra

Anonymous said...

Hi, your blog is great, I loved reading all about your travels. Best wishes to you and your family!

Michele S. said...

Fang Fang,

Thank you for sharing your journey with all of us. Your poem was a beautiful ending to this chapter of your journey.

Michele S.
Kaytlin's Mom

Anonymous said...

Hello Fang Fang
We've just been looking at your blogg - again! Happy memories. We think about you often and hope you're settling back into school life! Thanks for your great account of the days we had together, and the lovely photos. Take care and keep in touch!
Lesley, Ali, Edie and Freda